The Rolex Yacht-Master 16623 is the teak-deck cousin of the Rolex Submariner dive watch. While the Submariner was born in 1954 to probe the briny depth, the Yacht-Master set sail in 1992 to conquer the whitecaps. More refined, more richly appointed, and endowed with luxury exclusives, this two-tone Yacht-Master 16623 is the seafaring option for the sportsman who prefers to ride above rather than dive below the waves.
Rolex’s initial Yacht-Master concept was born as a “what-if?” take on a post Quartz Crisis evolution of the veteran Rolex Submariner. The 1980s witnessed the recovery of Swiss mechanical watches and the rise of Rolex as a luxury lifestyle bluechip. Against that backdrop, the utilitarian origins (and finish) of the Submariner appeared incongruous. The Yacht-Master was the answer.
To be precise, the Yacht-Master was AN answer to the Sub’s identity crisis. When Rolex opted to retain the older 16610 Submariner, the Yacht-Master was born from the design mock-ups for the Submariner Deluxe concept.
And what a concept it was! The Rolex Yacht-Master features refinements not seen on the Submariner until well into the 21st century. Larger applied gold indices and hands grace the dial. Each of these features improves legibility and enhances visual impact during the day; larger Super LumiNova luminescent plots ensure outstanding visibility at night.
On its exterior, the Yacht-Master boasted solid lugs in contrast to the drilled units of the Submariner. The Yacht-Master’s seamless flanks were matched to a full gold bezel.
While the Submariner made due with a bonded aluminum insert, the Yacht-Master boasted a full soldered gold (or platinum) insert to match the bezel’s precious metal. A bracelet with solid end links and a two-tone bracelet with “straight through” yellow gold coloration completed this uptown makeover of the salty Submariner.
Bidirectional bezel action means that the Yacht-Master can be adjusted rapidly to commence a 5-minute regatta countdown sequence. The 100-meter/330-foot water resistance of the Oyster case ensures more than sufficient security in the event of a “man overboard.”
This Rolex Yacht-Master features the scintillating sunburst blue metallic dial. Its distinctive radial brushed grain dances in any light, but the dynamism of this dial “pegs the meter” in direct sunlight. Additional accents of gilt (gold) text, applied yellow gold indices and matching hands assure a judicious blend of light/dark contrast. A red “Yacht-Master” script at six o’clock links this white-collar sailor to the grand legacy of Rolex maritime timepieces.
Within the 904L stainless steel Rolex Oyster case, an in-house Rolex caliber 3155 keeps time. It’s the same COSC-certified Swiss chronometer movement that keeps the beat in Rolex’s Submariner and Sea-Dweller dive watches. With a hand-made Breguet overcoil hairspring, full balance bridge, bi-directional automatic winding, and hacking (stop) seconds for precise synchronization to a reference clock, this movement is both tough and precise.
Video and content by Tim Mosso
